The Queen Lives On

I literally did a double take when first watching a video of the Alexander McQueen Spring 2011 Ready-to-wear show. I could have sworn I saw Lee in every one of the designs from this collection. But then I remembered, with a little sadness, that this was the first collection from his label not designed by him.

This season marked the transition of Sarah Burton from partner of McQueen to creative director of the label. It’s hard to imagine a more difficult task than continuing the artistic vision of a fashion genius without him there to chip in his two cents. But Burton met the challenge head on and I think she did a exquisite job of channeling his aesthetic into a great tribute to the designer.

She incorporated his signature looks into her designs – the elaborate gowns and the tailcoats being two of the most recognizable – but the greatest difference this season was the femininity and lightness she injected into the collection.

While McQueen’s concepts were often haunting and dark, she added a little bit of contrasting softness. This was evident in the way she incorporated lace and knitwear into his Victorian-like silhouettes, and how she took away some of the hardness of his designs by crafting leather into little butterflies and slashing open the defined shoulders on many jackets and dresses without diminishing any of the strength and fierceness that defined a McQueen woman.

Despite the differences, Burton did a lovely job staying true to McQueen’s spirit. The show was just as fantastical as his former ones, and the clothes just as elaborate. I, personally, am already counting down the days until Burton’s next collection shows.

R.I.P. Lee Alexander McQueen

xoxo Lesley